Complete Sports Card Grading Guide: How And Which Cards To Submit
Grading Your Vintage Sports Cards
Card grading can be stressful-this guide simplifies the process
There are many factors to consider when deciding if your sports cards should be professionally graded. This guide offers information on determining if you should grade your cards, which cards to grade, selecting which company to grade with, how to submit your cards, and grading standards
Key Information About Grading
First we will start with a few basic terms about grading
"Raw": Ungraded
"Slabbed": Graded
Low Grade: Grades 1-3
Mid Grade: Grades 4-6
High Grade: Grades 7-10
Cost
There are 3 major grading companies: PSA (Professional Sports Authenticator), SGC (Sportcard Guarantee Corporation), and Beckett. PSA is the largest and considered by many to be the gold standard for grading. Let's take a look at costs with PSA, where grading fees are determined based on value of the card. Here is a breakdown of costs: cards worth $500 or less: $24.99, worth $1500 or less: $74.99, worth $2500 or less: $129.00, worth $5,000 or less: $249.00, and $10,000 or less: $499.00. Shipping costs to and from PSA + insurance need to be paid in addition to the above grading fees.
Have reasonable expectations
It can be exciting when researching the value of your cards, but it is best to go in with reasonable expectations. Some collectors think their vintage cards are in mint condition. This is possible but not very likely. Most cards which were handled by kids at one point show some signs of wear and end up being graded in the mid-grade range (grades 4-6). Grading companies are also extremely tough on grades when it comes to vintage cards, especially key Hall of Famers and rookies. Lets looks at an example.
Example: PSA 10 1980 Topps Rickey Henderson rookie card. This card in a 10 sells for over $100,000. It is easy for someone to look at their ungraded Rickey Henderson and think that it is mint. A closer look reveals that a 9 sells for $1,500, an 8 sell for $200, and a 7 sells for $90. Ungraded this card regularly sells for $50 to $75. A look at the PSA population report shows that almost 40,000 1980 Rickey Henderson rookie cards have been submitted, but only 25 have been graded a 10. Moral of the story is it is far more likely that your Henderson rookie is worth $100 than $100,000.
Is it worth it financially to get my cards graded?
We will use the 1980 Topps Rickey Henderson rookie card as an example again. Let's say you own a nice looking example and you are trying to figure out if you should send it in. You could sell your card ungraded for $50-$75. Or you could send it in, and you will be charged $25 for grading plus ~$20 to $25 for shipping and insurance. If your card comes back at a PSA 7, it is worth about $90. But remember, you already paid ~$50 for grading + shipping fees. $90 minus $50 is $40; this card would have sold for more ungraded. Now on the other hand, your card could grade an 8 or a 9 and you made significantly more than if you sold it raw. A strong knowledge of the grading standards is helpful with evaluating cards.
Value of high grade cards of 1950s & 60s Hall of Famers can go up exponentially from one grade to the next
Example: 1952 Topps Mickey Mantle: (values from PSA price guide)
PSA 6: $175,000 (population 127)
PSA 7: $250,000 (population 85)
PSA 7.5 $650,000 (population 7)
PSA 8: $1.1 million (population 43)
*This all has to do with rarity and demand. Typically the number of cards at the particular grade go down as grades go up. As a result even a 0.5 bump in grade can cause the value to increase an exorbitant amount of money. Take a look at the difference between a PSA 7.5 vs a PSA 8; the price jumps $550,000! This is an extreme but is a reminder grading can be worth it for high grade rookie cards of top tier Hall of Famers-especially cards from the early 50s.
Should You Grade Your Cards?
When deciding if you should grade your sports cards, the first thing to ask is why do you want to submit them?
Are you submitting:
1. To sell them -or- To make them more valuable?
2. To protect your collection?
3. Just for fun?
1. To sell them -or- Make them more valuable
Some sellers are not comfortable providing a grading description in their listing, and would prefer to have a professional give their opinion regarding condition. Having a card graded by a reputable company also can give the buyer more confidence in what they are purchasing as well. It also takes the subjectivity out of buying; both the seller and buyer know the assigned grade.
A lot of people assume that if a card is graded it is worth more money. This is not always true, depending on the card. For cards of top tier Hall of Famers or rookies, grading can typically increase value. But many cards do not gain value. When factoring in the cost of grading, shipping both ways, and insurance, it may be more profitable to simply sell the card ungraded.
2. To protect your collection
Many collectors worry about their favorite cards being damaged. Cards are quite fragile and all it takes is a clumsy moment for a card to become creased, bent, or ruined. Graded slabs help provide a layer of protection for the card. Having an inventory of graded cards can also be helpful when insuring your cards. Current market value is easier to determine, as one can compare recent sales of the same card in the same grade.
3. Just for fun
Some collectors just enjoy the thrill of sending cards in for grading and waiting to see what grades they get. They aren't doing in for profit just the fun of the grading experience.
For those just looking to sell their cards, grading can be worth it. It allows the seller to know exactly what they have so they won't be taken advantage of. It does require an up front investment (grading fees) which can sometimes eat into profits. With the high costs of grading cards, it is prudent to be very selective when selecting cards to submit.
For collectors looking to grade/protect their personal collection, or those submitting just for the fun of it, there is no wrong way to submit. If you want to grade a common card worth 5 cents but has sentimental value, it is up to you.
Selecting Which Cards To Grade
Grading can be expensive, and card owners must be diligent when selecting which cards to submit. As mentioned earlier, not all cards are worth more when graded. Here are a few general guidelines:
1. Submit top-tier Hall of Famers
Examples: Ty Cobb, Christy Mathewson, Walter Johnson, Babe Ruth, Lou Gehrig, Mickey Mantle, Jackie Robinson, Hank Aaron, Willie Mays
In regards to the above players, it is almost always a good idea to grade star cards from 1900-1938. Even low grade examples can fetch thousands of dollars. There are a lot of fakes/counterfeits of cards from this era so you can protect yourself and know exactly what you have when selling. Once you get into the 1950s, it changes some. Generally it is worth it to grade all Mickey Mantles and Jackie Robinson from any year. For other players, it depends on condition. It's likely worth it to submit cards from the early to mid-50s of all Hank Aaron and Willie Mays cards. For the late 50s, it depends on condition. The difference in lower grade ungraded cards vs graded is likely not much different when taking grading costs into account. For high grade cards from the same years, it is very likely that grading will increase the value.
2. Submit key rookie cards from the 1950s and 60s
Examples: Mickey Mantle (1951 Bowman), Willie Mays (1951 Bowman), Hank Aaron (1954 Topps), Ernie Banks (1954 Topps), Roberto Clemente (1955 Topps), Sandy Koufax (1955 Topps), Bob Gibson (1959 Topps), Pete Rose (1963 Topps), Tom Seaver (1967 Topps), Nolan Ryan (1968 Topps).
These cards are highly desirable and have a large collector base. Even low grade examples can command good money. It is especially important for cards in mid to high grade.
3. Be more picky about stars from the late 1960s and 70s
For star players like Hank Aaron and Willie Mays, prices start to go down quite a but as you get to cards later in their careers. For example, cards of each from 1969 can be had for generally $25 to $50 raw. Graded prices for lower to mid grade cards are $50 to $100. Remember that grading fees/shipping/insurance fees around about $50; it is probably not worth submitting these cards unless they are high grade.
4. Be even more picky about sending in commons
Some people might disagree but most of the time it is not worth sending in commons. For mid grade and lower common cards from the mid 50s and up, the grading fees will cost more than what the card will sell for. There are some exceptions, such as mid to high grade commons from classic sets like T206 (and most tobacco card sets for that matter), 1933-38 Goudey, 1948 Leaf, and 1952 Topps. Sets that are extremely scare (such as the 1913 Voskamp set, where the population of most cards in the set is 4 or less) can be worth grading commons in any condition.
**Throwback Sports Cards buys graded and ungraded vintage sport cards
When it comes to ungraded, we estimate grade and determine value based on that grade. With over 15 year of experiences submitting cards, you can feel comfortable knowing that you have a trusted expert evaluating your collection. You will also save some money by not having to submit the cards yourself.
Selecting Which Company To Grade With
There are generally 3 major grading companies recognized by collectors: PSA (Professional Sports Authenticator, SGC (Sportscard Guarantee Corporation), and Beckett. Each will be discussed briefly below.
PSA (Professional Sports Authenticator)
PSA is the largest of the 3 grading companies. Based in California, they are known for grading both vintage and modern. Cards in PSA slabs generally sell for more when compared to the others, but usually cost more to grade. Given the size and demand for grading, it typically takes longer to get your cards back (1-2 months with PSA vs 1-2 weeks with SGC). Most collectors consider PSA the gold standard for grading.
SGC (Sportscard Guarantee Corporation)
SGC is based in Florida and are known more as a vintage card grading company. Prices to grade are usually a little cheaper than PSA and their customer service is top notch. It typically only takes 1 to 2 weeks to get your cards back. Many collectors prefer SGC for tobacco cards.
Beckett Grading
Beckett is what most collectors think of for pricing sports cards, as it was a very popular monthly price guide magazine in the 90s. The company still grades cards, under BGS and BVG (vintage cards). It is generally more of an option for modern cards.
How To Submit Your Cards For Grading
Many collectors have questions when it comes to submitting cards for the first time. The idea of shipping cards and letting them out of your possession can also be difficult. Unfortunately this is a necessary part of submitting cards. The process below outlines how to submit cards to PSA and how to package/ship your cards.
The first step in the grading process is filling out the grading form. To do this, go to www.psacard.com. You will need to create an account first, then select "Submit"- then"Trading Cards"- then"Grading"-then select"Value Level" (based on value of your card). Enter the card you are submitting in the search bar. Simply type in the year, manufacturer, and player name (ex: 1969 Topps Mickey Mantle). Select the quantity of that card you are submitting and the value (this is used to calculating shipping insurance). Finally, select shipping then press submit. Print off two copies of the form; keep one for your records and place one in the box with your cards
Shipping Your Cards
To ship your cards, place your cards in a protective holder. PSA recommends using a Card Saver. They also state not use use rigid holders like screw downs or top loaders. Place strong cardboard both sides of the card. This keeps the card from being bent/damaged in shipping. The easiest thing to do is cut out two rectangles (which are slightly larger than the Card Saver) from a cardboard box. Place the card(s) between the cardboard and rubber band them so the card cannot slip out. Next add bubble wrap around the cardboard for extra protection. Place the bubble wrapped card/cardboard in a box. Be sure to place your submission form in the box also. The submission form also has the shipping address for PSA listed on it. In regards to shipping, if using USPS, be sure to add shipping insurance and signature confirmation.
Once cards are received, it typically takes a few days for PSA to enter them into the system. An email will be sent alerting you the grading process has started. Log into your PSA account and watch as your card goes through the grading process.
Grading Standards/Factors To Consider
Corners
Corners are subject to wear, fraying, bends, and creases.
Surface
Check the surface for scratches, indents, scuffs, and wax/gum stains
Cetnering
Centering of the image on the front back is measured from side to side and top to bottom
Colors
Sometimes the colors on a card can be faded, dull, or missing completely. Bright vibrant colors make the card pop
Edges
Edges can show dents, wear, fraying, and imperfections in finish
Clarity/Registration
Printing errors can lead to unclear registration or blurry images. Crisp images are desired
Centering
Centering plays a major part in grading. Measurements are taken of the space between the image and the border from to the left and right of the image and top to bottom. Collectors prefer cards which are 50/50 centered. Grading companies have centering parameters which must be met for cards to qualify for higher grades.
Corners
Corners also play a big part in the grading process. Corners can have wear, bends, fraying and creases from being handled and played with. Sharp edges typically equate to a higher grade. Rounded corners are a detractor and and usually knock the grade down to the 3 or 4 range.
Edges
Similar to wear on corners, edges can easily be damaged as well. Chipping, indents, and wear from rubber bands are commons, especially with older cards.
Surface
The surface of the card can easily show creases, wrinkles, indents, scuffs, and wax/gum stains. Any of these detractors can lower the grade.
Lets use the 1971 Topps Reggie Jackson to point out some condition issues. As you can see the centering is off right to left and top to bottom. There is more black border on the left compared to the right of the card and more black border on top compared to bottom. The corners have rounding and creases, and the edges have plenty of chipping. The surface has multiple creases and some areas of scuffing. This card would not grade higher than a 1 or 1.5
Grading Standards
GEM-MT 10: Gem Mint
A Gem Mint 10 card is a virtually perfect card. Attributes include four perfectly sharp corners, sharp focus and full original gloss. A Gem Mint 10 card must be free of staining of any kind, but an allowance may be made for a slight printing imperfection, if it doesn’t impair the overall appeal of the card. The image must be centered on the card within a tolerance not to exceed approximately 55/45 to 60/40 percent on the front, and 75/25 percent on the reverse.
MINT 9: Mint
A Mint 9 is a superb condition card that exhibits only one of the following minor flaws: a very slight wax stain on reverse, a minor printing imperfection or slightly off-white borders. Centering must be approximately 60/40 to 65/35 or better on the front and 90/10 or better on the reverse.
NM-MT 8: Near Mint-Mint
A NM-MT 8 is a super high-end card that appears Mint 9 at first glance, but upon closer inspection, the card can exhibit the following: a very slight wax stain on reverse, slightest fraying at one or two corners, a minor printing imperfection, and/or slightly off-white borders. Centering must be approximately 65/35 to 70/30 or better on the front and 90/10 or better on the reverse.
NM 7: Near Mint
A NM 7 is a card with just a slight surface wear visible upon close inspection. There may be slight fraying on some corners. Picture focus may be slightly out-of-register. A minor printing blemish is acceptable. Slight wax staining is acceptable on the back of the card only. Most of the original gloss is retained. Centering must be approximately 70/30 to 75/25 or better on the front and 90/10 or better on the back.
EX-MT 6: Excellent-Mint
A EX-MT 6 card may have visible surface wear or a printing defect which does not detract from its overall appeal. A very light scratch may be detected only upon close inspection. Corners may have slightly graduated fraying. Picture focus may be slightly out-of-register. Card may show some loss of original gloss, may have minor wax stain on reverse, may exhibit very slight notching on edges and may also show some off-whiteness on borders. Centering must be 80/20 or better on the front and 90/10 or better on the reverse.
EX 5: Excellent
Excellent On EX-5 cards, very minor rounding of the corners is becoming evident. Surface wear or printing defects are more visible. There may be minor chipping on edges. Loss of original gloss will be more apparent. Focus of picture may be slightly out-of-register. Several light scratches may be visible upon close inspection, but do not detract from the appeal of the card. Card may show some off-whiteness of borders. Centering must be 85/15 or better on the front and 90/10 or better on the back.
VG-EX 4: Very Good-Excellent
A VG-EX 4 card’s corners may be slightly rounded. Surface wear is noticeable but modest. The card may have light scuffing or light scratches. Some original gloss will be retained. Borders may be slightly off-white. A light crease may be visible. Centering must be 85/15 or better on the front and 90/10 or better on the back.
VG 3: Very Good
A VG 3 card reveals some rounding of the corners, though not extreme. Some surface wear will be apparent, along with possible light scuffing or light scratches. Focus may be somewhat off-register and edges may exhibit noticeable wear. Much, but not all, of the card’s original gloss will be lost. Borders may be somewhat yellowed and/or discolored. A crease may be visible. Printing defects are possible. Slight stain may show on obverse and wax staining on reverse may be more prominent. Centering must be 90/10 or better on the front and back.
GOOD 2: Good
A Good 2 card’s corners show accelerated rounding and surface wear is starting to become obvious. A good card may have scratching, scuffing, light staining, or chipping of enamel on obverse. There may be several creases. Original gloss may be completely absent. Card may show considerable discoloration. Centering must be 90/10 or better on the front and back.
FR 1.5: Fair
A Fair 1.5 card’s corners will show extreme wear, possibly affecting framing of the picture. The surface of the card will show advanced stages of wear, including scuffing, scratching, pitting, chipping and staining. The picture will possibly be quite out-of-register and the borders may have become brown and dirty. The card may have one or more heavy creases. In order to achieve a Fair grade, a card must be fully intact. Even though the card may be heavily worn, it cannot achieve this grade if it is missing solid pieces of the card as a result of a major tear, etc. This would include damage such as the removal of the back layer of the card or an entire corner. The centering must be approximately 90/10 or better on the front and back.
PR 1: Poor
A Poor 1 will exhibit many of the same qualities of a PSA Fair 1.5 but the defects may have advanced to such a serious stage that the eye-appeal of the card has nearly vanished in its entirety. A Poor card may be missing one or two small pieces, exhibit major creasing that nearly breaks through all the layers of cardboard or it may contain extreme discoloration or dirtiness throughout that may make it difficult to identify the issue or content of the card on either the front or back. A card of this nature may also show noticeable warping or another type of destructive defect.